To begin at the beginning, please turn to the first blog posts of January 2020. Those early posts lay out historical facts, but subsequent posts reveal the soul of my neighborhood as I knew it. Less historical and more subjective, they concentrate on the characters, customs, and concerns that gave this far corner of New York City its hometown aura.
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Rossi Pastry Shop
“We Specialize in Cakes for All Occasions, Cookie Trays, and Miniature and Large Pastry. All Baking Done on Premises.”
Our friend Robert had a summer job at Rossi Pastry Shop on East Gun Hill Road at the corner of Fenton Avenue. When he walked home at the end of the day, we could see him coming while he was still halfway down the block as his white work clothes reflected the streetlights and gave him a conspicuous glow. As he got closer, though, we could smell him coming. Robert seemed to be bringing the whole bakery with him. Over the course the day, as he worked at the hot ovens, every fiber of his being had become infused with the essence of his baked creations, and now the summer breeze served it up to us.
For many bakeries, it’s the scent of their specialty breads that captivates all within smelling distance. For Rossi’s, it was the aroma of their cookies—Italian cookies.
Supermarkets carry cookie assortments that look much like authentic Italian cookies. Stacked in plastic boxes, decorated with colorful sprinkles, and bursting with jam, they look like a true bakery cookie, but one taste leaves no doubt that that is where the similarity ends. Italian bakeries use only first-quality ingredients, including fresh butter, fine chocolate, scratch-made jams, and pure extracts. Factories that mass produce the inexpensive lookalikes bake with shortening and other butter substitutes, imitation extracts, and chemical additives.
Dipped, drizzled, dusted, sandwiched, or sprinkled: the butter cookie varieties
Although the butter cookies start with the same dough, the final embellishments impart variety in flavor as well as in appearance. Piping the dough through a pastry bag fitted with a star tip creates decorative ridges on the plank-shaped cookies, while round cookies and rosettes emerge from the pastry bag in wavy swirls.
A typical assortment from Rossi’s included plank-shaped sandwich cookies filled with raspberry jam and dusted with powdered sugar, or half-dipped in chocolate and spattered with minced nuts or rainbow sprinkles. Round cookies could be topped with chocolate chips, chocolate or rainbow sprinkles, a glace cherry, or a zigzagged drizzle of chocolate.
Sold by the pound and placed with care into paper-lined bakery boxes, or mounded onto cellophane-wrapped trays, an assortment included all the butter cookie varieties as well as one or two of the more expensive types—chocolate-lace Florentines and the almond-based Venetians (rainbow cookies), chewy pignoli cookies, and cherry-topped macaroons.
As a gift to take to special visits, whether as a dinner guest or to see a recuperating friend, a box of Rossi’s cookies presented a welcome alternative to the more customary Italian pastries. But a tray heaped with cookies and adorned with candy-coated almonds in pastel colors became the centerpiece of the table at holiday gatherings, funeral luncheons, or family parties.
Birthday Cakes
Thick ruffles of white buttercream frosting circled the top of these round cakes, and peanut shards clung to the frosted sides. A cluster of thick roses of pink, blue, or yellow frosting shared space with the birthday message on top. Cutting through the dense layer of buttercream into the cake below required a long, sharp knife; sliding out the first piece required a heavy-duty spatula. The withdrawn wedge revealed two layers of yellow cake separated with either more buttercream or a fruit spread, typically lemon or strawberry. A certain flavor in the cake—rum, I eventually learned—seemed to be a real crowd pleaser. You could almost taste it before the fork entered your mouth, simply by its smell. The richness of the heavy frosting and the taste of the rum and the strange combination of peanuts with frosting made me dread these ornate creations, especially when the cake was for my own birthday.
Summer’s Signature
As kids we ran to Vinnie’s candy store on Eastchester Road at least once a day. Rossi’s was a half-mile away in another neighborhood, but Rossi’s had what Vinnie’s did not: Italian ices. Since we only got there once or twice a summer, a lemon ice from Rossi Pastry Shop was a special treat.
A soft white mound in a pleated paper cup, the lemon ice had a smooth, creamy consistency, with no annoying bits of lemon zest as other Italian ices had. Frosty sweetness, combined with the tang of lemon, created the best kind of brain freeze on the hottest summer day.
No one wanted to rush through summer’s rarest treat, but lingering too long turned the ice to lemonade and the cup to a pulpy, leaking wad. A quick slurp took care of the little puddle before it could all drip away. All that was left was a summer memory and a coat of stickiness that clung to mouth, hands, knees, sneakers, shorts, and top.
© Barbara Cole 2021. All Rights Reserved.
Pignoli Cookies
7-8 oz. almond paste
3/4 cup confectioner’s sugar
1 egg white
1/3 cup pignoli nuts
Preheat oven to 350°. Line cookie sheet(s) with parchment paper.
Break the almond paste into small bits. With electric mixer on low speed, mix together the almond paste and sugar. Add the egg white and mix for 2 minutes on medium speed.
With wet hands (to manage the sticky dough), roll the dough into 1-inch balls, then roll the balls into a shallow bowl of pine nuts. Place the balls onto the prepared cookie sheets, 1˗2 inches apart. Flatten the tops slightly.
Bake 15˗20 minutes until light golden brown.
Leave cookies on the parchment paper to cool.
Makes 18˗20 cookies.
St. Patrick’s Day in New York
In my neighborhood in the northeast Bronx, St. Patrick’s Day meant corned beef and cabbage for dinner, no matter what your ethnicity. Afterward, neighbors would gather to celebrate the patron saint of the Archdiocese of New York with Irish coffee and buttered wedges of Irish soda bread. Those of us with no Irish blood might not don the ubiquitous “Kiss Me, I’m Irish” button, but we celebrated the day just as enthusiastically.
It was a cultural celebration rather than a religious one. At Holy Rosary School back in the 1960s, the arrival of March would find each grade in the midst of rehearsals for the St. Patrick’s Day plays. The lower grades might put on short skits related to St. Patrick or Ireland, but the upper grades collaborated on full-length musicals such as My Fair Lady or The King and I. Freed from the daily drudgery of classwork to memorize lines, stand still for costume fittings, practice singing the musical score, and take part in rehearsals, we felt a new excitement about school. The approach of St. Patrick’s Day also meant that spring was near, and summer vacation not far behind. Spirits started to rise, life in general felt happier.
During my high school years in the 1970s, St. Patrick’s Day meant marching up Fifth Avenue in the annual parade.
For this special occasion the student body of my all-girls school wore the dress uniform—a blue and white pleated skirt, white shirt, and white woolen blazer, a step up from the solid blue-gray skirt and jacket for every day. One year, those of us designated to carry the school banner at the head of our unit later learned from excited family, friends, and neighbors that the television camera caught clear sight of us.
Another year, the cheerleading team marched as a group. Our school windbreakers provided the extra layer we needed over our short-sleeve, short-skirt cheerleading outfits, and skin-toned tights covered our legs, but the brisk walk and the strengthening sun kept us warm enough despite the wind and 45- to 50-degree temperatures. We marched with hands holding pom-poms on hips, but when we approached the reviewing stand (“Eyes left!”) and then St. Patrick’s Cathedral (“Eyes right!”), where Cardinal Cooke stood watching, we went into a brief, pom-pom tossing routine.
A hired bus drove us into Manhattan in the morning, dropping us off on East 44th Street near its intersection with Fifth Avenue. There we waited until the parade stepped off at noon, joining the line of march when the organizers called us into position. With the near-springtime sun high overhead, we marched to cheers and drunken jeers, surrounded by the whine of bagpipes and the wind-driven scent of pretzels steaming at street-corner stands, until the sun slanted sharply from the west and we turned right onto East 82nd Street.
The buildings cast long deep shadows up there, where the crowd was sparse and the surroundings subdued, so unlike the crazed, party-time atmosphere further south. We found our bus waiting, doors wide open, and clambered aboard. Starving and thoroughly worn out, we flopped into the comfortable seats for the ride back to the Bronx and to Jahn’s, a popular eatery and ice cream shop on Fordham Road.
In later years, riding the Number 5 Lexington Avenue Express into Grand Central Terminal revealed more quirks of this particular day in New York City. Neon-green oases had sprung up overnight all over the main concourse—flower carts crammed with buckets and buckets of bright green carnations. Commuters wore the green carnations in their lapels or carried them in bundles. Even the stodgiest, most serious among them (whom you had sized up by sight from the daily commute) accessorized their business attire with green plastic bowler hats, bright green ties, and those enormous “I’m Irish” buttons. Others carried green balloons and green-frosted cupcakes and plush leprechauns on a stick.
Out on the street spirits were high, as were many of the revelers who came into the city to celebrate the day by glancing at the parade, then hitting the pubs.
From his post on the steps of St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Cardinal Cooke, Archbishop of New York from 1968 to 1983, caught an eyeful. Troubled enough by the sight of inebriated adults, he was even more disturbed by the obnoxious behavior of masses of drunken teens. This prompted him to start speaking out before the big day, reminding New Yorkers that St. Patrick’s Day is a feast day that honors a saint, not a raucous spring festival like Mardi Gras. He urged New Yorkers to appreciate the religious meaning of the day while celebrating its cultural richness.
Happy St. Patrick’s Day!
Mrs. O’Brien’s Irish Soda Bread
(from Anna O’Brien of Ireland and the Bronx)
4 cups flour
4 tsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
Pinch baking soda
½ cup (1 stick) butter, softened
¾ cup sugar
¾ cup raisins
1 Tbsp caraway seeds
2 eggs
1½ cups milk
Preheat oven to 350º. Grease and flour one 9″ round cake pan.
Sift together flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda.
Add butter, blending in with fingertips.
Stir in sugar, raisins, and caraway seeds.
Beat eggs and milk together. Add to dry mixture.
Mix with a fork until completely moist.
Press mixture into prepared pan.
Bake for 1½ hours.
© Barbara Cole 2021. All Rights Reserved.
Ed and Millie
Ed and Millie never fought. I came to this conclusion about my neighbors on Westervelt Avenue as I swirled a piece of my waffle into a pool of maple syrup and watched, for the hundredth time, as Ed backed his dark blue Pontiac out of the garage and up his driveway onto the driveway behind his.
On school days my breakfast time coincided with Ed’s departure for work. From my place at the kitchen table, I’d watch as Ed then rolled the car forward and began the turn onto the access road that would exit onto Mace Avenue. There at the turn he would pause, smile in the direction of his kitchen window, and wave. I never saw him fail to do this.
He and Millie must never fight, because if they had just had an argument would he still wave and smile?
Ed and Millie, at this point, had passed middle age by a fair distance, but they were so active and energetic that no one considered them old. Ed, however, liked to say he was “as old as Methuselah.”
Millie, petite and slender, had alabaster skin that crinkled into networks of deep lines. Her silver-gray eyes matched her hair. Ed’s gray hair was all but gone at the top. A tall and sturdy man, he had laugh lines etched into his face and blue-gray eyes that smiled behind wire-framed glasses. His neat-as-a-pin appearance, even while wearing work clothes, gave him a dignified aspect.
Like other stay-at-home wives of the 1960s, Millie had a daily routine. One day a week, soon after the wave from the window, she would leave the house by the back door with her collapsible shopping cart for the short walk to Eastchester Road and the Associated Food Store. An hour later she would return, towing the cart crammed with brown grocery bags.
On other mornings I’d see her in the backyard hanging the wash on the freestanding clothesline. When I was very young and confined to my fenced-in backyard, she would sing out across our side-by-side driveways: “I love you, a bushel and a peck,” and I’d sing back, “A bushel and a peck and a hug around the neck.” This would be our standard greeting for years to come, and Millie would often add that she loved me before I was born.
Whatever Millie’s workload for the day, she would complete enough of it by early afternoon for a stretch of free time for herself. This she typically spent in the living room, specifically in the elbow of the sectional sofa where various projects and pastimes awaited her attention. Beside her sat her knitting bag stuffed with colorful yarn, knitting needles jutting out like TV antenna ears. Neatly arranged on the coffee table within easy reach lay the Daily News, a book of crossword puzzles, two sharpened pencils, the TV Guide, a box of tissues, and a box of assorted chocolates that never seemed to have more than a few pieces missing. It was a scene of organized clutter in an immaculate room.
An item we did not possess also had a place on the coffee table—the television remote control. This latest bit of technology—along with their color TV, an anniversary gift from their children and grandchildren—set Ed and Millie apart from their neighbors. When a glance at the clock showed it was time for As the World Turns, Millie would reach for the remote. Never one for idle hands, her fingers worked the knitting needles as she watched her program, the afghan-in-progress draping her knees and cascading to the floor.
The male member of the household set his mark upon this room as well. Spread across the fireplace mantel, nose to tail, stood Ed’s herd of brass horses. A set of antlers hung over the archway that separated the living room from the dining room. On the side table beside his armchair Ed kept his particular things, including another brass horse and a box of Kleenex Man Size tissues.
Later in the afternoon Millie plucked the laundry off the clothesline and then started dinner. She might also take on a baking project. Modern woman of the 1960s that she was, Millie embraced convenience. Taking advantage of cake mixes and refrigerated dough, she rarely baked from scratch. But whether it was a wedge of chocolate cake or a half-dozen cinnamon buns, she frequently shared those desserts with us.
Sometimes I’d get advance notice, if Millie happened to see me coming home from school. As if she couldn’t keep the surprise to herself any longer, she’d call out, “I’ll be ticking your bell later.”
I knew what that meant. And when 5:00 rolled around and our doorbell “ticked,” there stood Millie holding out a plate of something fresh from the oven, sheathed with plastic wrap stretched to shiny smoothness. When she placed her offering into my happy little hands, warmth penetrated the plate, spread across my palms, and projected comfort that went beyond the appeal to the sweet tooth. This unexpected gift spoke of a caring neighbor who wanted to share not just a treat, but the joy that accompanies life’s little surprises.
On summer evenings, as the aroma of after-dinner coffee seeped through their windows, Ed, with shirtsleeves rolled up, would come out to hose down his lawn. As soon as he shut off the water, coiled up the hose, and sat down on the stoop, the neighborhood kids would converge on him, sprawling at his feet or dangling near his head from the iron railings. His playful sense of humor sent us into gales of laughter, as he had a never-ending supply of jokes just right for the youngest among us. (“When I get up in the morning I wash my teeth and brush my face.”)
Saturday evenings were different. At 7:20 sharp, Ed, dressed in suit and tie, would back the Pontiac out of the driveway and make a solitary trip to Holy Rosary Church, where he served as an usher at the 7:30 Mass.
It troubled us when he was diagnosed with cancer of the larynx, and we endured his absence while he recovered from surgery that replaced his voice box with a mechanical one. After that, our evenings with him dwindled down. But he never failed to smile at us, and he never failed to wave.
© Barbara Cole 2021. All Rights Reserved.